The Victoria Falls

Sunday 24th October 2016

Salt, Livingstone and Walker, I Presume

By 6 am we were at the entrance to The Falls and witnessed the hoisting of both the Zim National Flag and the National Parks Flag at the entrance.  An impressive start to the day.  Locals pay $7 to visit and visitors $30......  I am not too sure what Penny really expected to see but it certainly wasn't what she found; it was so much more.  And for me it wasn't quite as I remembered either; it's the dry season and it hasn't rained for months but I didn't expect to see a non-existent Rainbow or Horseshoe Falls.  It was quite amazing to see to the bottom of the gorges though and it just brought home that however many times that you may visit the Falls they are completely different.  We walked along the paths and thoroughly enjoyed the experience.  However, much you pay it's totally worth it.

Boots' parents and brother Andrew at The Falls c 1980

Sunrise at the Falls

Boots first visited The Falls back in 1972, after a landrover trip down through Africa, and began living there after a stint of a couple of years post South Africa in Lupane in 1974.  His parents and brother visited later.  I moved to the Falls in 1982 and that's when we met - getting married 6 months later in November 1982 with a reception at Larry and Shirley Cumming's farm.  Group wedding photos all taken under Livingstone's statue.

"Come from afar. Stand before me for a while.  Return home and I dare try and forget me.  If you cannot forget me take strength from me"

The Victoria Falls - Mosi oa Tunya - The Smoke That Thunders - one of the modern seven wonders of the world.

Rainbow

Hapana mvura

Lujeri Tea Estate, Malawi

Wednesday 16^th November – Lujeri, Mulanje, Malawi.

Another verandah – a couple of weeks on from being at the Falls. Am typing but there is no power so updating to the blog will have to come later......

The sky is grey and turning black; it's raining and thunder is rumbling away in the distance – not too close yet. The verandah is right next to Mt Mulanje but I cannot see it!

This verandah is on the Lujeri Tea Estate – a place I have spent many hours working – not actually on the verandah. We are in Malawi. It's rather nice to actually be taking time out and spending a leisurely day on this verandah – something I have longed to do in the past. The pool is below and yesterday when we arrived, being very hot and dusty it was wonderful to have a swim and cool down.

It's raining but there's the pool below the verandah

 I can't remember when I first came here to work but it was at least twenty years ago! I still think of Craig King (the current FD) as “new” but he and Cheyne are just about to leave and return to SA after living here for 14 years. It's good to catch up.

Oooh there goes the lightening and the wind is rising fast. Thunder is closer. Doors beginning to bang and the trees are swaying. Perhaps it's time to move inside.......African rain; it's come at last. It's been hot and people have been waiting. Am relieved, however, that it wasn't raining on our trip up to Tanzania and then back down again. Some of the roads have been pretty bad with major roadworks going on; with rain those detours will now be hellish.

Lujeri - Franjipane tree

Am in catch up phase again – I last posted from The Falls and since then we've been on Lake Kariba at Musango Camp via light aircraft and boat and then driven back to Harare, from where we set off again, to the Vumba in the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe. After our return on Tuesday 1^st November Penny flew back to the UK on Wednesday 2^nd and I headed with Alastair up to Malawi and then on to Tanzania. And now we're on our return leg and back in Malawi. Got some back track blogging to do!

Frangipane

The Zambezi

Sunday 23rd October

As I sat on the verandah blogging, the wind came up a bit and it went slightly overcast and there were a few spots of rain.  The smell of those on the dry earth is simply wonderful and for anyone who knows Africa this is very nostalgic.  I wondered how Penny was down in the swirling rapids of the Zambezi on her rafting trip.  She appeared at about three grinning from ear to ear.  She was still alive and feeling stupendous!  Adrenalin had kicked in and done its job!

The rafter returns

Penny's story of the day -

Sunday 23rd October 0540 start. Very nervous after our canoe with the elephants yesterday - and that was the tame trip..Dressed in Fiona's shorts and cap with long sleeved shirt, I was picked up by a driver after a lot of reassurances from Fiona and giving her details of my next of kin and passport whereabouts. There was one other person in the van who turned out to be Robert Bradfield from Cambridge, a batchelor and not married to my cousin Sarah but he said he was a distant relation ( yet to be confirmed).When we arrived at the office they said we were the only ones on the trip, another 4 hadn't turned up so they had arranged for us to join another company, Wild Horizons.  Meanwhile my 10 dollars, national park fee, had fallen out of my pocket. I walked back to the van but it had gone. I had one last look before getting into wild horizons vehicle and found it on the ground  just yards from phone touts who had been jostling for business and still there 20 mins later - our guide,Ictor, couldn't believe it and told everybody, a new one too, they're rare! It would have been a weeks' wages locally.

Our new team consisted of another young Brit who was on his honeymoon (his wife wasn't interested in coming today), New Zealanders father and son, and 3 International volunteers from USA and Canada. We drove to the Look Out Cafe for coffee while the 3 volunteers went on the zip wire- costs 100 dollars and the adrenaline rush lasts 20 secs. They all loved it but a crazy fee for such a brief buzz..
We were then equipped with helmets and lifejackets, tied tight and sat on the lawn listening to a safety briefing while we sweltered - eventually we had the good sense to remove them. They asked whether we wanted to paddle and they all agreed except me so I showed them my blisters after yesterday's row and they agreed I could sit in the bow. Back in the van, more a cattle truck, we drove a short distance to the descent. It's a long way down, mostly with metal ladders but they were sheer and I was grateful I didn't have a paddle to carry so I could hold on to both rails. After a clamber over the rocks at the bottom, we found our raft which had been brought down and inflated. There were a few oneman canoes on the water and some activity on the Zambian side opposite, only metres away, otherwise it was unusually quiet and we didn't have to queue which I gather can happen at busy times. We had a delightful guide Elium who stood in the stern with 2 long oars and directed us with one other local who rowed, he took over when we lost Elium and all the port side rowers at Rapid 15..

After some practice manoeuvres we set off. The American volunteer and English lad were in front on either side of me, leading the pace. They were v good but it was a squash when we had to get down and hang on for all 3 of us to fit in the front compartment. I had to throw myself forward on to my knees which became quite bruised by the end but the skill in guiding the raft around the rapids, avoiding whirlpools was brilliant. I got completely soaked on rapid one with 18 rapids and 27 miles to go,missing number 9 where we all got out and walked round. They tidied up the raft and sent it down unaided where it was caught by our accompanying canoe. Very deft. The last person who tried to ride the rapid hasn't been seen again and his body was never found..
The whole trip was exhilarating and although I never fell out, they let us swim and drift with the water lying back on our life jacket headrests- it was fabulous. The water was warm but the weather was cloudy and quite windy so I got cold. Later I was glad I did cos the climb back up was a killer. Fortunately Ictor took me by the hand and hauled me up. I'm not sure I would have made it without him. Some organisations arrange helicopter lifts but I didn't know that until afterwards. Ice cold drinks and BBQ meal with salad was waiting for us.  A fabulous experience and, apart from a few crocodiles, not as scary as yesterday's canoeing with elephants..