The Victoria Falls

Sunday 24th October 2016

Salt, Livingstone and Walker, I Presume

By 6 am we were at the entrance to The Falls and witnessed the hoisting of both the Zim National Flag and the National Parks Flag at the entrance.  An impressive start to the day.  Locals pay $7 to visit and visitors $30......  I am not too sure what Penny really expected to see but it certainly wasn't what she found; it was so much more.  And for me it wasn't quite as I remembered either; it's the dry season and it hasn't rained for months but I didn't expect to see a non-existent Rainbow or Horseshoe Falls.  It was quite amazing to see to the bottom of the gorges though and it just brought home that however many times that you may visit the Falls they are completely different.  We walked along the paths and thoroughly enjoyed the experience.  However, much you pay it's totally worth it.

Boots' parents and brother Andrew at The Falls c 1980

Sunrise at the Falls

Boots first visited The Falls back in 1972, after a landrover trip down through Africa, and began living there after a stint of a couple of years post South Africa in Lupane in 1974.  His parents and brother visited later.  I moved to the Falls in 1982 and that's when we met - getting married 6 months later in November 1982 with a reception at Larry and Shirley Cumming's farm.  Group wedding photos all taken under Livingstone's statue.

"Come from afar. Stand before me for a while.  Return home and I dare try and forget me.  If you cannot forget me take strength from me"

The Victoria Falls - Mosi oa Tunya - The Smoke That Thunders - one of the modern seven wonders of the world.

Rainbow

Hapana mvura

Lujeri Tea Estate, Malawi

Wednesday 16^th November – Lujeri, Mulanje, Malawi.

Another verandah – a couple of weeks on from being at the Falls. Am typing but there is no power so updating to the blog will have to come later......

The sky is grey and turning black; it's raining and thunder is rumbling away in the distance – not too close yet. The verandah is right next to Mt Mulanje but I cannot see it!

This verandah is on the Lujeri Tea Estate – a place I have spent many hours working – not actually on the verandah. We are in Malawi. It's rather nice to actually be taking time out and spending a leisurely day on this verandah – something I have longed to do in the past. The pool is below and yesterday when we arrived, being very hot and dusty it was wonderful to have a swim and cool down.

It's raining but there's the pool below the verandah

 I can't remember when I first came here to work but it was at least twenty years ago! I still think of Craig King (the current FD) as “new” but he and Cheyne are just about to leave and return to SA after living here for 14 years. It's good to catch up.

Oooh there goes the lightening and the wind is rising fast. Thunder is closer. Doors beginning to bang and the trees are swaying. Perhaps it's time to move inside.......African rain; it's come at last. It's been hot and people have been waiting. Am relieved, however, that it wasn't raining on our trip up to Tanzania and then back down again. Some of the roads have been pretty bad with major roadworks going on; with rain those detours will now be hellish.

Lujeri - Franjipane tree

Am in catch up phase again – I last posted from The Falls and since then we've been on Lake Kariba at Musango Camp via light aircraft and boat and then driven back to Harare, from where we set off again, to the Vumba in the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe. After our return on Tuesday 1^st November Penny flew back to the UK on Wednesday 2^nd and I headed with Alastair up to Malawi and then on to Tanzania. And now we're on our return leg and back in Malawi. Got some back track blogging to do!

Frangipane

The Zambezi

Sunday 23rd October

As I sat on the verandah blogging, the wind came up a bit and it went slightly overcast and there were a few spots of rain.  The smell of those on the dry earth is simply wonderful and for anyone who knows Africa this is very nostalgic.  I wondered how Penny was down in the swirling rapids of the Zambezi on her rafting trip.  She appeared at about three grinning from ear to ear.  She was still alive and feeling stupendous!  Adrenalin had kicked in and done its job!

The rafter returns

Penny's story of the day -

Sunday 23rd October 0540 start. Very nervous after our canoe with the elephants yesterday - and that was the tame trip..Dressed in Fiona's shorts and cap with long sleeved shirt, I was picked up by a driver after a lot of reassurances from Fiona and giving her details of my next of kin and passport whereabouts. There was one other person in the van who turned out to be Robert Bradfield from Cambridge, a batchelor and not married to my cousin Sarah but he said he was a distant relation ( yet to be confirmed).When we arrived at the office they said we were the only ones on the trip, another 4 hadn't turned up so they had arranged for us to join another company, Wild Horizons.  Meanwhile my 10 dollars, national park fee, had fallen out of my pocket. I walked back to the van but it had gone. I had one last look before getting into wild horizons vehicle and found it on the ground  just yards from phone touts who had been jostling for business and still there 20 mins later - our guide,Ictor, couldn't believe it and told everybody, a new one too, they're rare! It would have been a weeks' wages locally.

Our new team consisted of another young Brit who was on his honeymoon (his wife wasn't interested in coming today), New Zealanders father and son, and 3 International volunteers from USA and Canada. We drove to the Look Out Cafe for coffee while the 3 volunteers went on the zip wire- costs 100 dollars and the adrenaline rush lasts 20 secs. They all loved it but a crazy fee for such a brief buzz..
We were then equipped with helmets and lifejackets, tied tight and sat on the lawn listening to a safety briefing while we sweltered - eventually we had the good sense to remove them. They asked whether we wanted to paddle and they all agreed except me so I showed them my blisters after yesterday's row and they agreed I could sit in the bow. Back in the van, more a cattle truck, we drove a short distance to the descent. It's a long way down, mostly with metal ladders but they were sheer and I was grateful I didn't have a paddle to carry so I could hold on to both rails. After a clamber over the rocks at the bottom, we found our raft which had been brought down and inflated. There were a few oneman canoes on the water and some activity on the Zambian side opposite, only metres away, otherwise it was unusually quiet and we didn't have to queue which I gather can happen at busy times. We had a delightful guide Elium who stood in the stern with 2 long oars and directed us with one other local who rowed, he took over when we lost Elium and all the port side rowers at Rapid 15..

After some practice manoeuvres we set off. The American volunteer and English lad were in front on either side of me, leading the pace. They were v good but it was a squash when we had to get down and hang on for all 3 of us to fit in the front compartment. I had to throw myself forward on to my knees which became quite bruised by the end but the skill in guiding the raft around the rapids, avoiding whirlpools was brilliant. I got completely soaked on rapid one with 18 rapids and 27 miles to go,missing number 9 where we all got out and walked round. They tidied up the raft and sent it down unaided where it was caught by our accompanying canoe. Very deft. The last person who tried to ride the rapid hasn't been seen again and his body was never found..
The whole trip was exhilarating and although I never fell out, they let us swim and drift with the water lying back on our life jacket headrests- it was fabulous. The water was warm but the weather was cloudy and quite windy so I got cold. Later I was glad I did cos the climb back up was a killer. Fortunately Ictor took me by the hand and hauled me up. I'm not sure I would have made it without him. Some organisations arrange helicopter lifts but I didn't know that until afterwards. Ice cold drinks and BBQ meal with salad was waiting for us.  A fabulous experience and, apart from a few crocodiles, not as scary as yesterday's canoeing with elephants..

Camp Amalinda - The Matopos

Tuesday - 18th October

The walk with the lion (Three 11 month old orphans) had us up very early and it did take me a while to overcome my gut instinct to keep well away.  The guides were very good at controlling them and were obviously very passionate about them and the project.  It was interesting to meet the volunteers who pay to come out and work with the lion and were loving every minute of their experience.  One lady had been making toys for the lions to play with but wasn't so enamoured about making the food; some animal intestines had blown up in the heat - tasty!

So after breakfast we got on the road again for Bulawayo.  We met up with Jane Michie and left Alastair with her to have lunch at Ginge's (a really nice cafe with shop) before they went to work.  Penny and I, although very tempted by the cafe, had a quick rock shandy and then got back in the vehicle and I drove south to The Matopos.

Jane and I 

The road to Camp Amalinda

 It was about an hours drive to Camp Amalinda.  Once you turn off down their track part of the drive is over large granite slabs of rock.

First impressions of the camp are quite awesome as the camp has been built into and around the granite outcrops. Camp manager, Billy, and Eklinda (Angel) met us and gave us some iced tea before taking our bags to our "room".  It's large with two double beds swathed in mosquito nets, a seating area, equipped with a fridge and espresso machine and the magnificent bathroom has a huge shower set in amongst the rock boulders and an equally large bath with a view over the bush.

The pool

Happiness is!

Lunch was awaiting us by the pool......an infinity pool with stupendous views out across the Matobo Hills.  The salads we were given were absolutely wonderful.  This was good.  I had only been able to book one night here as the camp was full and so, as we knew we were going to have to leave at sparrows in order to get Camp Hwange the next day, we decided to forgo any of the game drives or visits to Rhodes' grave and other memorials and just embrace the Camp itself.  Penny booked a full body massage and me reflexology with Eklinda.  What a brilliant choice.  It was a perfect afternoon especially as we have been pretty much on the go since we left mud island!

Snacks and a game - not to be confused!

Eklinda has been at the Camp for many years and so we realised that this was not the first time I had met her as we, as a family visited here along with my brother's family and his friend Charlie's family back in about 1998.  It's a great place to come with children and I know ours loved their visit here but it's also very luxurious.  Billy and the staff's attention to detail was paramount and we just felt totally pampered.  The food was excellent too and the new decking area next to the dining room is the perfect place for breakfast.

Antelope Park

Monday 17th October - At 12.45 Alastair, Penny and I set off for Antelope Park, just outside Gweru, en route to Bulawayo and The Matopos.  Driving out of Harare is pretty grim as you go through the cow's guts and on down Beatrice Road and the industrial sites.  The market area down Fourth Street parallel to Meikles Hotel has grown with loads of commuter omnibuses, touts and vendors.  A lorry had overturned at the end of Beatrice Road just before the cemetery at the roundabout.  So unlike the Uk where the road would have been closed off we just weaved our way around it.............as did everyone else.  The dual carriageway has sort of opened there now but it does come to an end and it's easy to carry on to a dead end because you've missed the cross over back onto the normal road!

Lots of inspirational quotes at Antelope Park

Anyway, we got to Antelope Park at about 4pm and checked in.  Alastair into a basic room whilst Penny and I each had a "water edged" river tent room with verandah.  It's the dry season so the river by the tents was dry but they're still in a beautiful setting with birdlife and it's a great introduction of what's to come.  There's now a bar at the camp next to to the boma so, of course, we met up pretty quickly to douse our thirst.  Over supper we decided that Penny and I would walk with the lions the next morning before heading off for Bulawayo...............................

The Park attracts many volunteers from over the world to work on its conservation and community projects.  There is, however, some controversy over the lion project.

Curry Night and Domboshawa

Natalie receiving the donation

Saturday 15th October - I started to clear and sort out the shed and garage.  Found rafters for Penny to use for her white water trip.   Last used by Vicky or Laura!   I also came across seven rats - 6 dead in various states of decay plus a big live one.  It was very hot work and non too pleasant but Cephas and  Marco helped me.  Took most of the day to do this but then Penny and I helped Ant prepare sambas and snacks for his evening curry party in the garden.  It was a chance for Natalie to receive the donation that I had brought over for her orphans project from Llandovery Rotary Club.  She was so very happy to receive this and I know she will put it directly to very good use.

Cephas next to my pickup

So overcome and happy!

Four of the guests were a group of friends who had just been on a camping trip to Mana which meant that Penny was now really keen to go there - but no real time; we shall see!

On Sunday (16th) we decided to go up Domboshawa, a large granite outcrop on the edge of Harare to see the sunset and full moon.  Penny and I forgot the beer but we did remember the gin and tonics!  Faye brought some beautiful stuffed figs and I had found some cheesy biscuits in the cupboard so it wasn't all bad!

 After our walk we were invited over to Phillipa's house in Monavale for supper.  It's in a beautiful setting and Penny had her first swim in Zimbabwe - by moonlight.

Visit to our old house

Friday 14th October - early morning coffee routine settled in with a chat with Les and Ant.  It's just so wonderful to wake up to sunny mornings.

At lunchtime we drove over to meet up with Alastair and Adele at The Bottom Drawer in Alex Park just off Second Street extension.  It's an old house that has been converted into a shop and cafe with many tables in its garden.  Service is very friendly but a bit slow; but no matter as we were really in no hurry and the food is good.

Lunch at The Bottom Drawer

A great Greek Salad

Once the double A's had gone back to work Penny and I set off for a drive to check out our old house.  
The gardener was keen to talk to us in English and put his language skills into practice.  We were invited inside by Semedia and her daughter and we had a house tour.  They are obviously very happy there and it was a real pleasure to meet them and see what's been done there.

We then drove up to Kamfinsa which I really didn't recognise much as it has changed so much and then I found my way over to Chisipite School.  We wandered around a bit.  Penny was quite amazed at what both Saints and Chisi had to offer.  We haven't gone to the Convent yet or Speciss; only driven past.  So after an afternoon of reminiscence and being very careful of Stop signs we got back to the flat and got ready to go out for supper at Coimbra.  I think I was so excited about having a good peri peri chicken that I was so disappointed when it was actually pretty tasteless and too mild for me. There was no extra sauce to put on top other than garlic and some sort of stiff chilli paste.  The wine was very good though!  Will just have to go again!  

Peri peri chicken

Back to first Day in Harare

Because of the erratic internet and then because my Mac was overheating (yup, I'll rub it in; it's not cold here!) I have missed out on the first few days in Harare and our visits to Antelope Park and Amalinda in The Matopos but am hoping to catch up whilst here in The Falls.

I am currently sitting on Helen's verandah in The Falls and enjoying tapping away and catching up.  Penny meanwhile has gone off to conquer the Zambezi on a white water rafting trip - grade 5/6 rapids.  She was pretty hesitant this morning setting off and I can understand her nervousness.  I have been there.  I first did the rafting with Sobek in 1982 on an exploratory trip of theirs to see if this could be a new tourism venture.  I was one of the first five girls to do this along with Hazel from Air Zimbabwe, Fleur and Margaret from UTC and Sue (?) from Vic Falls Hotel.  The boys (!) included Rob Francis, Steve Perry and Nigel Bichard.  At that time we had the Grey Scouts on horseback checking out for mines and John the pioneer oarsman had to stop at every rapid and check it out.  It was pretty scary.  I did it again in the nineties with a group of about a dozen of us from work.  This time it was far more sophisticated but equally as exciting, exhilarating and scary.  Boots and Laura and Vicky did it in 2000 and Leanne and Sarah did it in 1996 when they came over to visit us.   I'm looking forward to seeing Penny's reaction when she returns in a couple of hours.  Hoping that it's been amazing.

Penny setting off for her white water rafting adventure this morning

Going back to the first few days in Harare now seem pretty tame.  Our econet sim cards were a failure as we could not activate our iPhones without contacting the UK service providers; a bit of nightmare we decided to avoid.  Al lent Penny a phone of his so we have one Zim number between us.

Garden at the Flat

View from Les' bedroom where
we have coffee in the morning

Garden

St George's - near staff housing  

Near barrier at Saints

After seeing Helen in Borrowdale we wandered through Sam Levy's Village and had a coffee at the cafe at the end.  All in all not much has changed but I can't get over how much stuff there is for sale.  I went with Alastair to Avondale to get something for Penny and I for supper and couldn't believe that there is marmite for sale.  Penny and I were pretty tired so we opted for an early night.

Marmite on sale - WHATTTTTT!

Canoeing on the Zambezi

Saturday 22nd October - Alarm went off at 6am.  Got dressed, smothered ourselves in suntan cream, had some breakfast and were ready for pick up here at the house at 07.10

Ten of us were off to go canoeing on the Zambezi above The Falls - about 20km above and for a stretch of about 10km over a few grade 1 and 2 rapids.  Going over a few rapids like these is exciting but when wild game in the form of hippos and croc are added into the mix then the potential for increased adrenalin is even more exciting!  And then there were the elephant - nobody had mentioned those to Penny.............

After a drive through the Zambezi National Park and paying our entrance fees and our first view of the mighty river (fourth largest in Africa after the Niger, Congo and Nile)

The Zambezi River

we arrived at the launch site.  Our guides were extremely humorous in their telling of facts about the game and birds we saw along the way.  I can't begin to say how kudu got their name, according to them, but it was something to do with balls and how they moved when the animal was in movement.  We were also introduced to the Ugly Five as opposed to the Big Five - maribou stork, warthog, hyena, aardvark and wildebeest; we only actually saw the first two.

And along the way we saw a seldom seen site of a baobab in flower - an indication that it will soon rain.  It is very hot as expected - over 40 degrees.

Baobab in flower

Penny was teamed up with Mike from Israel and I with one of the guides - Otila.  There were 6 boats in all with three guides led by Ndoga whose intro speech re safety and how to paddle was clearly and reassuringly given in a very laid back and easily understood way - with humour too.  We left our bags, camera, watches in the vehicle and donned our life jackets and picked up our paddles.  We also had bacon and egg rolls and coffee before setting off.  Penny made me take a photo of the loo which she was fascinated by out here in the middle of nowhere!

A proper flushing toilet out in the bush

We saw hippo - some fairly close - and bounced over a few rapids and then saw a couple of elephant in the distance.  We turned a bend in the river avoiding a hippo to our left when we realised upon a whole heap of elephant in the water and on the land in front of us to our left and right.  I heard Penny say something like "how can we possibly go through all that?".  She was pretty terrified.  We stayed by the right hand bank and watched as two young bulls jousted in the water in front of us.  We waited and as we slowly and quietly nudged forwards the elephant separated themselves and split into groups either side of the river - some still in the water.  The two young bulls stopped playing.  We paddled through the middle of about seventy elephant.  This again was a fairly uncommon sighting and we were very close!  There were several babies amongst the herd and it was so interesting watching them being guided across the water.  Quite an experience.

Launch and breakfast site

With our paddles

Happy landings!

And so after two and a half hours on the water we came to the end and lunch and a cold beer or soft drink.  Fellow paddlers, a Swiss couple, have promised to send us some photos as they had waterproof equipment.  We look forward to seeing them.  I'm afraid I was not prepared to risk losing my new camera in the water.  The other paddlers were a couple of Polish girls and two American sisters who were being shown around by their South African friend, Janice.

Hot and dusty we jumped into the pool as soon as we got back home.  

The evening was spent by driving around The Big Tree (the old pioneer meeting and camping place and used by David Livingstone), a quick visit to the Kingdom Hotel to see what's what and then on to the Falls Hotel for a cocktail on the verandah.  We then went on to the restaurant by the swimming pool which has been called Jungle Junction in remembrance of the time when the BOAC boat plane was in action flying from  Alexandria through Khartoum and The Falls and on to Jo'burg.......The Falls being nicknamed Jungle Junction.  The meal consisted of a buffet and a show of traditional dancing - mkishi, shangaan, nhau and ndebele.  It was Ok but it was a bit tired and nothing like as enigmatic as the performances I remembered at the old Falls Craft Village.  We had a great waiter called Marshall who was mortified when there was a stuff up with the bill; our fault not his.  Penny left him a good tip.

Mkishi Dancers

Victoria Falls

A two hour drive to Vic Falls from Mbala Gate.  Could feel the increased heat as soon as we stepped out of the minibus.  After being dropped at Helen's house we headed straight for the pool!  But I didn't get very far as within seconds of being here Liz Read phoned to say that she was going to swing by with Chris Worden to lend us her car.  How amazing is that?!  I worked with Chris 35 years ago at National Parks, here in the Falls.  He and Liz now run the Falls office of the  Zambezi Safari and Travel Company  ("EXCEPTIONAL JOURNEYS ACROSS AFRICA")  through whom I  booked various parts of our itinerary - activities at The Falls,  Camp Hwange and our flight to Musango (Bumi).  We'll meet up with them again and Gary Jones on Tuesday night.

For many camps visitors have to book through an agent and not direct as these agents were the lifeline during the hard times that Zimbabwe has had to endure.  They help you identify what it is you actually want to do and see as there is such a variety of type of accommodation on offer here and in the region.  It's no good putting someone who is expecting jacuzzis and swimming pools into a camp that does not offer these.

Am I glad to be here or what???!

An hour passed by and in the pool and a chat with Steve and Lisa who are also staying at the house.

Having the car I did a quick tour of the town - past Nat Parks Provincial office where I worked, past our old house (which looks rather pitiful), past Our Lady of Peace where we got married, past where Boots' office would have been, past Elephant Hills, past A'Zambezi River Lodge (where I once worked - my first job in The Falls), past the Croc Farm, past the Boat Club, up to Nat Parks entrance into the Zambezi National Park and then back through the town and down around and over the railway line to the Sopers Curios area, informal market and Elephant Walk shops, then past the Post Office, Air Zim and the banks (I also worked at Barclays Bank!) towards Vic Falls Hotel and Penny's first sight of the bridge and "The Smoke that Thunders - Mosi oa Tunya".  Oh and we also popped in to the Lookout Cafe to see where it is and when it opens.  Managed to fit in a cold Zambezi for me and glass of wine for Penny before it closed at 7pm!

The bridge across the Zambezi to Zambia

By now we were pretty hungry so we went to Ilala Lodge for supper.  We were a bit scruffy and hadn't booked but they found us a space by the swimming pool.  I had some really good tilapia but Penny's steak was a bit disappointing.  The mozzies were apparent and the waiter brought some "Peaceful Sleep" to spray on our legs.  It worked too; mozzies kept at bay and we did sleep well!

Camp Life at Camp Hwange

Great shower

Eight thatched, 2 bed en-suite chalets with canvas and gauze walls are set either side of a central boma (dining area, bar and lounge) all overlooking a pan.  We are free to move around the camp during the day but at night we are escorted by one of the guides to the boma and back to our rooms.

View from my bed

At the Boma

View from my en-suite

The first night I awoke hearing munching outside my room and on getting up to see could see quite clearly three buffalo only a couple of yards from me.  They're pretty big so close but felt quite safe with the protection of the canvas wall!   Saw elephant spore on the walk to breakfast the next morning and, in fact, on the last evening, as we sat around the fire, an elephant walked up to the bird bath to take a slurp.

On our last morning early just after our wake up call I heard whistling but didn't think much of it.  I was on my verandah having coffee and if only I had taken notice I would have realised that it was Julian alerting us to a leopard who was crossing the pan by the hide.  Penny never heard the whistling so we both missed it.............as did everyone else who was staying; too busy getting ready for the day ahead.

Too busy taking photos to see the leopard!
You can see the tree and the hide in the distance

Early morning

First light at the boma

Ready to go

Breakfast

Neil and Shelley

The tree by the pan has a hide made from teak branches and logs surrounding it.  On our first night after watching elephant at the pan and the hippo in the water when there was a lull in activity we drove over to this hide and very quietly scrambled from the vehicle and hid ourselves behind it.  We waited then for the next herd of elephant to come down.  We were very up close and personal and we all secretly hoped that those few branches really would protect us.  We were reassured by Adam and since then have learned that his brother Daniel helped build the hide.  Teak is very heavy.  We would have looked as one with the tree and unless we moved or made a noise animals would not detect that we were individuals and potential prey.  We were very quiet and moved very slowly.  It was a very special viewing.

At the hide

Upon arrival at the Camp we had been met by Julian and his wife Ashleigh who were running the camp whilst Dave Carson was away (with guys from Disney who were in the Park filming).  Adam Jones was also there to greet us.  He has certainly grown up since I last saw him which was when he was about 7!  He has just done is final professional guiding exams and deserves to do very well - he was excellent; I know I am biased but I wouldn't bother to write here that he was if I didn't think so.  Later at supper we also met Spike Williamson, another seasoned professional guide who grew up in the Park at Dete.  His mother Pebbles (ex UTC) was a friend of William's as Boots was a development officer in the Hwange area in the seventies and later became the Provincial Officer for Mat North after he moved to Vic Falls.  It was really enjoyable talking to him about National Parks and names of people I knew and had seemingly forgotten and who kept popping back into my memory.  Long forgotten jargon also returned and an expression I haven't heard for a long term - "it's mushe"!

Some of the Camp Hwange Team

Good food and sociable - mixing with other clients and sharing our experiences.  This really is an excellent place to stay if you want to enjoy a good experience of life in the bush.